Crosshair Crochet: Amigurumi – Pachimari

Hello hello!

Now, I can’t just leave a videogame as just a fun thing to play through every once in a while – no, I must combine everything and craft various different things relating to said videogame.

Which is why you and I will be crocheting a pachimari today! What’s a pachimari?, you ask. Well.. If you’re a huge dork like me (and/or play a lot of Overwatch) you probably already know! I’m talking about one of these cute turnip-ish monsters found pretty much everywhere ingame:

Seriously. So. Cute. Photo from player icon ingame

Yes, and we’ll make one of those! No, really. Granted, ours won’t be as polished looking or as perfect as the ones you can buy from the blizzard store, but it’ll have character and personality!

Buckle up and let’s get started.

Now keep in mind, I wrote this pattern as I was crocheting my own first attempt at a pachimari, so y’know. It hasn’t been test-crocheted by anyone but myself, so do feel free to send me angry emails demanding explanations if something is unclear.

Note: this “tutorial”/”pattern”/whatever you want to call it, assumes you know how to crochet and understand the basics of amigurumi construction. You’ll need to know how to do a magic ring/magic circle start, the single crochet (sc) stitch, increasing and decreasing and working in continuous rounds. If you don’t know these techniques I’d suggest searching for them on youtube, there’s bound to be approximately 8 billion video tutorials there – that’s how I learned anyway.

I use US crochet terminology throughout this tutorial.


You’ll need the following:

Fingering weight cotton yarn in a tan/beige colour, white and green. I used three different brands – doesn’t matter much as long as it’s the same weight of yarn.

A 2.25 mm (B) hook

Embroidery floss/felt pieces in pink and black for details.

Darning needle

(Optional: safety eyes)

(Optional: metal “sticks” (pictures below))

(Note: if you want your pachimari larger or smaller, you could use a heavier/lighter weight yarn and a matching hook. My Pachimari is about the size of a tennisball, made with the materials listed above.)


I’ve marked the instructions in green and left my comments, tips and tricks in white for easier reading.

Make a magic ring with 6 sts
rnd 1-2: sc around (6)
rnd 3: *inc, sc* around (9)
rnd 4: sc around (9)
rnd 5: *inc, 2 sc* around (12)
rnd 6: inc every stitch (24)
rnd 7: *inc, 3 sc* around (30)
rnd 8-9: sc around (30)
rnd 10: *inc, 4 sc* around (36)
rnd 11: *inc, 5 sc* around (42)
rnd 12: sc around (42)
rnd 13: *inc, 6 sc* around (48)
rnd 14-21: sc around (48)
rnd 22: *dec, 6 sc* until last 4 sts, sc 4 (40)
rnd 23: sc around (40)
rnd 24: *dec, sc 4* until last 2 sts, sc 2 (33)
rnd 25: sc around (33)
rnd 26: *dec, sc 2* until last 3 sts, sc 3 (25)

Pause here, make the face and attach eyes before proceeding with the body.

Make 1 face:
Make a magic ring with 6 sts
rnd 1: inc in every stitch (12)
rnd 2: *inc, sc 1* around (18)
rnd 3: *inc, sc 2* around (24)
rnd 4: *inc, sc 3* around (30)
rnd 5: *inc, sc 4* around (36)
sl sts into the first stitch of the round and cut the yarn, leaving a long tail for later attaching the face to the body.

Ramble (full of great advice, mind you!) incoming:

I attached a pair of safety eyes (I got a box of 150 of them off Amazon – if you crochet a lot of amigurumis I’d recommend getting something like that, it just adds that extra something to the project.) Alternatively you could cut some black felt dots or stitch it on using embroidery floss or yarn.
Next I took some embroidery floss (I used DMC #600) for the mouth and just stitched that right on there using a darning needle with a pointed tip. (I used all six strands for this)
I also used two strands of black (DMC #310) for the outline of the mouth. Fewer strands to make it less.. extreme?
If you don’t have any embroidery floss or any desire to stitch it on there yourself, I’d recommend finding some pink felt and cutting out the pieces to glue them on.
I used a different pink to stitch on the cheeks (DMC #604, all six strands) and did not add a black outline to these. You want to position the cheeks under the eyes and just a bit further out.
Don’t worry if you aren’t the best at gauging where to place things, my pachimari came out with a crooked face too. I think it adds character.

Yes fam, character.

If you want to, you can add a dab of superglue to the back to secure all the strands of floss but that’s optional. I couldn’t find my superglue so I used a hot gluegun and it worked fine. Just be careful not to press on it so the glue seeps through the holes in the crochet since it’d then be visible from the front.

Next, stitch the face to the body using the long tail you left when you secured the edge of the face. If you used safety eyes you can poke these through two holes in the body to help keep the face in place as you stitch, but that’s optional. I just went around the perimeter of the face once and made sure it was nice and secure. Tie a knot and leave the yarn tail inside the body of the pachimari – once it’s stuffed and all, you won’t be able to tell it’s there.

Before continuing with the body, I’d recommend stuffing it a bit, just to make it easier to hold as you work the smaller rounds on the bottom of the pachimari.
I used poly-fil, which is just polyester fiberfill that you can use for stuffing toys with, but alternatively you can use yarn scraps (note, if you want to do this, I recommend crocheting at a fairly tight gauge, since you’ll otherwise be able to see the multi-coloured scraps through the pachimari)
or something like little cotton balls – keep in mind if you use those, you won’t be able to wash the project since it’ll just become a weird floppy mess once the cotton inside gets wet.

Pick your preferred stuffing and stuff your pachimari lightly. You’ll add more stuffing before closing it up, but this is just to give it a bit of a shape while you work the last few rounds of it.

Protip: I added a few pieces of dried lavender inside – your pachimari will become the best smelling piece of decor you have if you do this!
I took a little piece of scrap fabric, stitched around the sides of it to make it a little pouch, stuffed it with lavender and put it inside my pachimari.

Don’t worry about making it neat – no one is ever going to see this again.

This will prevent the lavender from moving around and coming out of the pachimari should the pieces somehow move to the surface.
If adding one of these little lavender pouches, make sure there’s plenty of stuffing around it so it can’t be seen through the holes, like so:

You can never have too much stuffing, no sir.

rnd 27: *dec, sc 1* until last stitch, sc 1

I’d recommend stuffing the body now, because the hole is only getting smaller. Stuff firmly! If this is your first crochet amigurumi, be prepared to use a lot more filling than you think you need. You’ll know it’s stuffed right when it looks like it wants to vomit filling from its bottom hole.. Yes.

rnd 28: *dec* until last stitch, sc 1. Cut yarn and secure, leave a semi-long tail. Weave yarn through each stitch all the way around and pull tight!

Now that the hole is closed you can go ahead and get rid of that yarn end. The way I do it is stab the pachimari and pull the yarn all the way through him and out on the other side. Pull super tightly and cut the yarn close to where it’s sticking out of him so that when you release the pressure the yarn end will magically hide itself inside the pachimari and you’ll never have to deal with it again! Awesome, isn’t it?

Now that you have a cute boob-shaped little turnip-dude with a cute face you can go ahead and spend some time contemplating why the hell you’re crocheting a pachimari rather than working on getting all your lost SR back, and proceed to wait three days for yarn in the correct shade of green to arrive.

Once your green yarn has arrived, proceed to make the petal/feet/tentacles/whatevers at the bottom of the pachimari:

Make a magic ring with 6 stitches.

rnd 1-3: sc around (6)

rnd 4: inc in every stitch (12)

rnd 5-10: sc around (12)

rnd 11: inc in the first two stitches, sc 4, inc in the next two stitches, sc 4 (16)

rnd 12-13: sc (16)

rnd 14: dec in the first two stitches (sets of 2, which means 4 stitches total), sc 4, dec in the next two stitches, sc 4 (12)

rnd 15-20: sc (12)

If you’re making the pachimari in a heavier weight yarn, you can stop the petal at this point to avoid them getting too long and weird-looking.

rnd 21: sc 2, inc in the next two stitches, sc 4, inc in the next two stitches, sc 2 (16)

rnd 22-23: sc (16)

rnd 24: sc 3, dec in the next two stitches, sc 4, dec in the next two stitches, sc 1 (12)

rnd 25-30: sc (12)

Don’t close off the petal in any way, just fasten the yarn by making a sl st into the first stitch of the next round and cut your working yarn.

You’ll notice the petal has two sets of “bumps” on the sides, there’s a good reason for this, I’ll explain later on.

Pachimari tentacle

Now make 3 more of these, but on the last one, don’t fasten and cut, we’re going to do some yarny magic and make them all stick together (which will make it much easier to put them onto the Pachimari).

First you want to grab some of these metal-sticks (used for floral decor usually, however serves a lot of purposes in crocheting amigurumi)

You want to bend it in half like so:

What are these sticks even called in English?

Next you’re going to insert it into the petal with the arch down, so you’ll have the two ends sticking out of the top of the petal. Cut them down a bit so all the metal is in the petal and not anywhere near the edge. Stuff the petal with some more stuffing of your choice.

These sticks are going to make the petals more bend-able and will keep them from being floppy and weird. You’ll be able to shape the petals to make the little guy wave, lie flat or have the usual little bendy petal-tentacles. Pretty cool, huh?

Now take the last petal you made, it should still have the working yarn attached.

sc the first two stitches so you’re on the front side of the petal, with your current loop being on the far right and your open stitches on the left. Sc the two layers of the top together, like so:

Simply sc through both layers here.

Now that you have closed the petal, with all the stuffing and the metal stick inside, you want to chain three, grab the next petal and attach that. Continue that all the way around, ending with a chain three and slip-stitching it onto the first petal. You want to connect all the petals with chains of three, and close them at the top all the way around.

Work the yarn ends in as you go along by simply placing them over the opening at the top of the petals and crochet over them. Trim the ends!

Now you won’t have to worry about positioning – your petals will be evenly spaced around the pachimari and all attached in one go! Magic!

Now, sc around the circle once, this’ll make your life easier when sewing the petals on. It’s a bit fiddly, but have patience. If you can’t force your hook through the chains in order to sc, don’t worry too much about it. Doesn’t really matter if you have two or three stitches there, point is they’re all stuck together.

After sc-ing around once – the edge will be a lot cleaner and easier to work with when stitching the petals on.

Fasten your yarn and cut, leaving a looooooooong tail for sewing it onto the pachimari body with.

Now flip your pachimari buddy upside down and place the petals over it. All you gotta do now is grab a darning needle and stitch all the way around! I did it on the inside of the circle, since the sc round from before made it easy peasy to see where to stitch, and it’s attached nice and secure that way.


Your pachimari is done! Now take it everywhere with you or proudly display it on your shelf to let the whole world know that you’re that kind of person who spent a ton of time making fan art rather than just playing the game!

Size comparison: Small pachimari done in fingering weight with a 2.25 mm hook, large done in bulky weight with 4.5mm hook.

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